Archive for the ‘Water Testing/Quality’ Category

New Heating System in Grow-out Greenhouse, Part 2

Friday, October 30th, 2009

Whereas the last post described how we are now heating the water in our Grow-out Greenhouse, this post will describe how we are heating the air.  The primary purpose of also heating the air is to keep the air about two degrees warmer than the water so that we won’t have condensation continually forming on the inside roof of the greenhouse.  In order to accomplish this we will utilize a similar method as to how we are heating the water.  Hot water produced from our boilers will be carried through copper plumbing and up to a Modine heater suspended from a metal greenhouse bow.  The hot water will flow through the heater and a fan will blow the warm air across the greenhouse.

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New Heating System in Grow-out Greenhouse, Part 1

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

In an earlier post, I started to discuss the filtration aspect of our new Grow-out Greenhouse.  This post will begin to discuss our new indirect heating system that is currently being installed in the greenhouse.  The purpose of the Grow-out Greenhouse is to increase the length and mass of our smaller high-grade koi.

The majority of our other greenhouses have heating systems where propane is utilized to heat the air and subsequently heat the water.  There are many inherent problems with this system, the largest one being inefficiency.  Since heat rises, much of the heat escapes through the roof.  Also, when the heat is raised to 78 degrees the water only reaches 65-66 degrees.  At this temperature koi will not put on the size we are trying to achieve and we are not able to feed them a high protein food.

Our new indirect heating system utilizes six heat exchangers (one per system) and two boilers.  Each boiler is 150,000 BTU which is more efficient than one 300,000 BTU boiler because having two allows for stage firing.  The boilers are powered by propane to heat water.  This water travels through copper piping into the greenhouse.  We chose copper because the spanning between brackets is 5 feet, and copper won’t bow, buckle, or degrade in the sun.  The water in the copper will never come in contact with the koi (copper is toxic to koi).  The heated water is brought into a heat exchanger.  The heat exchanger is filled with many tubes, which are filled with the heated water.  The pond water also enters the heat exchanger, but it surrounds the outside of the tubes.  Through this indirect contact, the pond water is heated and brought back into the ponds through PVC plumbing.  In the picture of the heat exchanger you will not see the PVC plumbing, as that is one of the jobs to be done this week.

This system of indirect heating gets the water much warmer than it would if we were to heat the air.  Also, it provides a more consistent water temperature.  Each system will also have its own thermostat so that it can adjust the heat automatically should one system become cooler, such as during a water change.  We will now be able to heat the water to our ideal 76-78 degrees.

While the initial investment to setup this system is more expensive, the cost to operate it will be considerably less expensive due to its efficiency.

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Photo of a vertically installed heat exchanger (PVC portion that brings the pond water into and out of the heat exchanger is not yet plumbed).  This is the installation for the “Polygeyser” systems.

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Photo of heat exchanger

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Photo of horizontally installed heat exchanger (PVC portion that brings pond water into and out of the heat exchanger still to be plumbed).  This is the installation setup for the “vortex” systems.

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Photo of the boiler room.  They are setup in a shed located outside of the greenhouse.

 

Koi Treatments While in Quarantine

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

We take our quarantine procedures very seriously at Quality Koi Company, as koi health is always our top priority.  AtMain Event Harvest, all of the koi are brought into greenhouses.  They remain in mandatory quarantine until December 31.  Our quarantine consists of first bringing the koi into salted tanks and then letting them rest for about a week.  Our goal is to reduce the amount of stress they experience.  The process of being seined, transported, handled, netted, bowled, and moved puts the koi through stress.  We want them to have rested for about a week with no interference from us.  Any koi that is showing obvious signs of stress, injury, or infection is immediately removed, inspected, and treated appropriately. 

The first treatment we typically do is Potassium Permanganate, which turns the water a purplish color until it oxidizes.  This treatment is stressful for us since we can’t see the koifor a day or two!!  The primary purpose of this treatment is to remove the likelihood of costia infection.  When koi are handled and experience a change in water temperature, it is very common for costia to appear.  We do this treatment first as a preemptive way of handling potential costia.

Prepping the Greenhouses for New Arrivals

Thursday, October 8th, 2009

We thought you might enjoy a picture of all the salt we need just for one greenhouse!  This greenhouse holds approximately 53,000 gallons of water, and to bring the water to 0.3% salinity we add 33 bags of 50lb salt.  We normally keep our greenhouse water without salt except for when we are bringing in koi from the mudponds.  Since koi experience gill congestion when moving from muddy water to clear water, salt helps to ease this, as well as stress.  Imagine how many bags of salt we go through at harvest time…

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Grow-out Greenhouse, Part 1

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

Since 2002, we have built seven greenhouses here at the farm.  Each and every greenhouse is unique in its design and function since we are always looking for ways to become more efficient and productive.  Each time we build a greenhouse we learn…we learn the good and the bad from previous designs.  In our newest greenhouse, we’ll call it our Grow-out Greenhouse, we designed it as a sort of experiment to test two different types of filtration systems.  It’s Vortex vs. Polygeyser!! 

 There are 12, 10’ diameter tanks in total.  Every set of two tanks is its own system with separate filtration.  Three sets of two tanks are using the vortex system and the other three sets of tanks are using the Polygeyser system.  The water quality will be tested and recorded routinely, along with feeding amounts.  We’ll also record the growth of the koi. 

 The purpose for using two different filtration systems in the same greenhouse is to compare an “off the shelf” system (Polygeyser) to a system that has been modified and retrofitted (vortex).  We are very interested to learn the variances between these two systems and of course, we will fill you in along the way!  Keep your eye out for posts with more information on these two systems.

 

 

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Polygeyser System

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Vortex System

Morning at the Farm

Monday, September 21st, 2009

We are fortunate to be able to watch the farm transform itself each season.  One of the most anticipated changes is from summer to fall.  In the morning, a quiet serenity rolls over the farm.  When the cool air temperature meets the warm waters of the pond, a blanket of mist rises from the ponds.   Once we see the mist, we know Main Event Harvest is right around the corner…

If you live in a climate similar to New Jersey, it’s important to keep track of your pond water temperatures this time of year.  With the warm days and cool nights you can have temperature swings.  Most of our mud ponds are hovering between 68 degrees and 71 degrees.  Most likely in the next two to three weeks as the temperature continues to drop we will switch to our wheat germ food.

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Walking the Ponds

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

For most anyone who has ever been to the farm, you know that “walking the ponds” is a daily activity from April to October.  For those of you who don’t know…we started breeding koi in the summer of 2002.  While we were successful at breeding, we ran into issues with keeping the fry alive.  We went through a few summers running into the same problem.  We were able to successfully keep some alive and they grew into beautiful koi; however, we need to be able to keep thousands of koi alive!  In talking with our mentor, Toshio Sakai (Isawa Nishkigoi Center, Matsunosuke bloodline), we shared with him the problems we were facing.  Little by little he shared his knowledge with us, but it was never black and white.  He offered small pieces of information in what seemed like riddles.  Adding to that the language barrier, it took us some time to figure out what his advice meant.  Over time, we learned that “walking” the ponds was one of the major elements in keeping the fry alive.

 

Pond being walked...notice the predator protection!

Pond being walked...notice the predator protection!

Our clay lined mud ponds have regular topsoil on top of the clay.  Gases naturally build up within the topsoil.  If you think of the topsoil layer like a sponge, pockets build up within the layer and if you step on the pocket, it releases the gas.  If the gases are not released they can be toxic to the koi.  Koi that are bigger typically root around the bottom looking for food, which helps to release the gases.  However, the fry are much too small and we need to do the work for them.  Once we learned this information our breeding program became much more successful.  That being said, when we started walking ponds in 2005 we walked each pond about 45 minutes to an hour, and each pond was walked once a week.  We thought that the longer we walked the better!  We still ran into a few problems the next few years with fry ponds “crashing.”  This year we took a very different approach…only walk the pond for 20 minutes and each pond is walked 2 to 3 times per week.  Knock on wood…no fry ponds crashed this year!!!  However, this summer season has been like no other summer in terms of weather.  We have experienced extremely cool weather for weeks at a time, as well as weeks of rain.  So if you were the koi breeder…what would you decide as the walking schedule for next summer?

Testing Mud Pond Water

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

One of the purposes of this blog is to share with you the daily maintenance jobs that we do at the farm.  These jobs change seasonally.  Normally most of the summer jobs are outside: stringing the ponds, walking the ponds, breeding, culling, etc.  We also test the water in the mud ponds on a daily basis.  Each day a block of ponds are tested so that each pond is tested at least once a week.  We primarily test the ph, Kh (alkalinity), oxygen, and temperature.  We have found over the years that oxygen depletion can happen rapidly and the results can be fatal.  To combat this, all of the ponds have aeration and are lightly stocked.  Also, during heat waves we will add more aeration to ponds that have lower levels of oxygen.

Reading the results from an oxygen test

Reading the results from an oxygen test

Tip for Pond Owners:    Test your ponds on a routine basis!  We recommend testing ammonia, nitrite, alkalinity, ph, oxygen, and temperature (knowing your water temperature will help you determine when to feed a high protein food vs a wheat germ based food).  Set a consistent time that you test the ponds.  We always test our ponds between 9-10am.  Be aware that ph levels swing throughout the day, which is why we recommend testing at the same time each day.  If you have time to test twice a day, it’s always useful information to know your levels in the morning versus your levels at night for comparison.  Keep a record of you results.  Whenever we receive calls from people regarding issues with their pond/koi, the first questions we ask are related to water quality.